Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the World

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Jonathan Monroe
Jonathan Monroe

Elara is a certified life coach and writer passionate about helping others unlock their potential through mindful living and goal-setting strategies.